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Chimney Liner Installation

Chimney liner installation and relining in Greater Seattle

The liner is the flue's working surface — the continuous, gas-tight passage that carries combustion products out of the house and keeps their heat away from the framing packed around the chimney. Relining rebuilds that surface when it has failed, or when the appliance connected to it has changed.

Below: the three lining materials, what the UL listings printed on a liner actually mean, why a flue that is too large for the appliance is a defect rather than a bonus, when insulation is required, and what the Level 2 inspection has to establish before anything is ordered.

Reviewed by Chimney4u editorial team · Last updated

What actually triggers a reline

Under the residential code as adopted in Seattle, a masonry chimney has to be lined, and the lining material has to suit the type of appliance connected to it, in accordance with that appliance's listing and the manufacturer's instructions. The mechanical code adds that the liner must be continuous and free of cracks, gaps, perforations or other deterioration that would let combustion gases, moisture or creosote escape. A failed liner is a compliance problem, not only a maintenance one.

  • Cracked, spalled or collapsed clay tiles. Tiles that have cracked through, lost large chunks, or dropped out of alignment no longer form a continuous passage. This is what a camera scan is looking for.
  • A chimney fire. CSIA describes masonry chimney fires as burning at around 2,000 degrees F, hot enough to melt mortar, crack tiles and collapse liners. Its guidance is that the remedy ranges from replacing flue tiles, to a new liner system, to rebuilding the chimney.
  • A new or different appliance. When an appliance is connected to an existing chimney, or permanently disconnected from one, the code requires that chimney to be brought into compliance for size, flue condition, cleanout and clearances. Fitting an insert, or swapping a furnace for a higher-efficiency model, routinely forces the question.
  • An unlined or partially lined chimney. Older stacks were sometimes built with no lining, or lined only part way up. Both turn up on houses that predate modern lining requirements.
  • Too little clearance to combustible framing. Where the masonry does not hold the required airspace to wood framing, the code's own exception is a lining system listed and labeled for chimneys in contact with combustibles — which is a relining job.
  • A flue that is the wrong size for what is attached. The mechanical code requires an existing chimney to be resized as necessary to control flue gas condensation and to give the appliance the draft it needs.

Clay tile, stainless steel, and cast-in-place

The code recognizes a short, closed list of flue linings for residential appliances: clay flue lining complying with ASTM C315, a listed and labeled lining system complying with UL 1777, a factory-built chimney unit listed for installation inside a masonry chimney, or another approved material able to resist corrosion, erosion, softening and cracking from flue gases and condensate at temperatures up to 1,800 degrees F. Anything sold as a liner outside those categories is not a code-compliant liner.

Clay tile
The fired-clay sections stacked inside most older masonry chimneys. Code installs them to ASTM C1283: laid in medium-duty, water-insoluble refractory mortar, joints tight and smooth on the inside, supported on all sides, and separated from the surrounding masonry by an airspace or insulation. Replacing tile in an existing chimney means breaking the old tile out from the top down, which is why a stainless system is more often the practical answer to a cracked flue.
Stainless steel
A flexible or rigid metal liner, sized to the appliance, run down the existing flue and connected at the appliance and at the top. It is the common answer for relining masonry and for making an old flue serve a stove, insert or new heating appliance. The alloy is not interchangeable — it is chosen by fuel.
Cast-in-place
A cementitious lining formed inside the existing chimney around a temporary form, leaving a seamless new flue surface against the old masonry. CSIA's inspection procedure judges a cast-in-place liner on thickness and on the absence of large surface irregularities, so both are fair questions to ask about a product.
Factory-built chimney unit
A listed chimney assembly installed within the masonry shell. A factory-built metal chimney can itself be relined, but the manufacturer sets the limit — DuraVent, for example, requires the liner's inside diameter to be at least 2 inches smaller than the inside diameter of the existing chimney.

UL 1777, UL 103 and what the label is telling you

"Listed and labeled" is not marketing language — it is the code's own test, and the listing is the document that defines what the product may be used for, at what clearance, and with which fuels. Two standard numbers come up constantly on liner quotes, and they cover different products.

UL 1777
The safety standard for chimney liners field-installed into new or existing masonry chimneys for residential appliances, where the maximum continuous flue-gas outlet temperature does not exceed 1,000 degrees F. Its scope explicitly excludes Category II, III and IV gas-burning appliances and systems that produce corrosive acid condensation or positive chimney pressure — so a high-efficiency condensing appliance is a different venting question entirely.
UL 103
The standard for factory-built chimneys venting gas, liquid and solid-fuel residential and building heating appliances, again at a maximum continuous flue-gas temperature of 1,000 degrees F. The standard lets a manufacturer choose between two limited-duration high-temperature test options, 1,700 degrees F or 2,100 degrees F. Product literature often shortens the higher rating to "HT", so ask which listing the specific product you are being quoted actually carries.
Notice of usage
Where a flue is relined with a material outside the code's general list, the code requires a permanent label near where the connector enters the chimney, stating the type or category of appliance and the fuel that flue may serve, and that other appliances must not be connected. Gas-only linings are the common case — it matters if a future owner wants to burn wood in that flue.

Sizing: why an oversized flue condenses

A flue is a heat engine as much as a pipe. Flue gases carry water vapor and stay a gas only while they stay above their dew point — DuraVent's instructions put that at roughly 128 degrees F as a manufacturer approximation. A flue with far more cross-section than the appliance needs cools the gases too fast, they condense on the liner wall, and moisture runs back down instead of leaving the roof.

That condensate is not clean water. Manufacturer documentation notes that ordinary indoor air carries chlorides given off by carpeting, paints, thinners and detergents, and that when combustion air is drawn from inside the house those contaminants can combine with flue gas condensate to form aggressive chemicals, hydrochloric acid among them, that attack connectors and liners. Condensation control is corrosion control.

  • The floor. A chimney flue may never be smaller in area than the connector coming off the appliance. That is the hard minimum in the residential code.
  • The ceiling, for solid fuel. Liner manufacturers cap the flue for a solid-fuel appliance at three times the cross-sectional area of the appliance outlet collar, and never smaller than the collar itself. The manuals note the formula shifts with chimney height.
  • Fireplaces are sized off the opening. Code sizes a masonry fireplace flue as a fraction of the fireplace opening: one-twelfth for round flues, one-tenth for square flues and rectangular flues under a 2-to-1 aspect ratio, and one-eighth at 2-to-1 or steeper.
  • High-efficiency appliances are the sensitive case. Lower flue gas temperatures leave less margin above dew point, so correct sizing matters more, not less, as appliances get more efficient.

Insulation: when it is required and when it is not

Insulating a stainless liner does two jobs at once. It keeps flue gases warmer, which holds them above dew point and reduces condensation and creosote deposition, and it is usually what the liner's listing depends on for its clearance-to-combustibles rating. It is not an add-on invented at the quote stage.

  • Solid fuel. CSIA's position is that liners serving solid fuel-burning appliances need to be insulated, describing the target as a zero/zero installation — zero clearance to the chimney interior and zero to the exterior. The insulation may be blanket, expanded mica, or a masonry insulating mix.
  • Gas and oil. CSIA states these liners generally do not require insulation to meet manufacturers' installation and warranty requirements, because flue gas temperatures and heat transfer are lower. Manufacturers still call insulating good practice there, to stabilize draft and minimize condensation.
  • The exception, and its condition. Manuals allow insulation to be omitted where the existing clay tile liner is in good condition and the chimney meets existing codes, and require the blanket over the full length in unlined, partially lined or cracked-tile chimneys. Establishing which of those you have is exactly what an inspection is for.
  • How much, and of what. Listed systems specify it precisely: several manufacturers require, for wood-fired service at their zero-clearance listing, roughly half an inch of 8-pound-density ceramic blanket or about an inch of a poured insulating mix. The figures are product-specific — the installed product's own listing governs.

The Level 2 inspection that comes first

NFPA 211, the national standard for chimneys, fireplaces, vents and solid fuel-burning appliances, names relining as one of the circumstances calling for a Level 2 inspection — alongside adding, removing or swapping in a dissimilar appliance, sale or transfer of the property, and any fire, weather or seismic event likely to have damaged the chimney. A Level 2 requires the internal surfaces of the flue liners to be examined with image-scanning equipment, so the camera scan is part of the standard, not an upsell.

  • What is actually wrong with the existing liner. Cracks, missing sections, failed joints and displaced tile show on the scan, and their location and extent decide whether the answer is tile replacement, a listed liner system, or something larger.
  • Whether the material and the size suit what is connected. A Level 2 requires evaluation of the flue lining material and the flue sizing against the type and input rating of the connected appliances — the step that catches an oversized flue before you pay for the wrong liner.
  • Clearance to combustibles. A Level 2 verifies clearance from the chimney to combustible material everywhere it can be reached, which determines whether a listed reduced-clearance lining system is needed.
  • Whether the chimney is sound enough to line. The scan and the accessible runs in attic, crawl space and basement show whether you are relining a good chimney or postponing a rebuild. They also produce the measurements the quote depends on: flue height, interior dimensions, offsets, and the appliance outlet collar.

What has to be true before a liner goes in

Liner manufacturers write prerequisites into their installation instructions, and meeting them is a condition of the listing and of the warranty. This is why a relining scope normally includes work that looks, on paper, like a different service.

  1. The flue is swept clean

    Instructions require all creosote — including hard tar glaze — plus soot, dirt and debris to be removed before installation, and call thorough cleaning a warranty prerequisite. A flue too dirty to inspect has to be swept before the liner can even be assessed.

  2. The chimney is confirmed structurally sound

    The same manuals require inspection for cracked, loose or missing brick, stone and mortar joints, and state directly that a chimney which is not structurally sound should not be relined. Where that is the finding, masonry repair or a rebuild comes first and is quoted on its own.

  3. The obstruction is dealt with, not worked around

    Where damaged tile, an offset or a narrowed section will not pass the diameter the appliance requires, the tile is broken out or the route is resolved. Forcing an undersized liner to fit is how appliances end up under-drafting.

  4. The top of the chimney is right

    The liner terminates through a top plate with a storm collar and rain cap, and the crown detail matters: code requires a caulked bond break around flue liners, and CSIA notes NFPA 211 calls for a bond break where the tile passes through the crown so the flue can expand vertically.

  5. The scope is written down before anything is ordered

    Material, alloy, diameter, listing, insulation type and terminations belong in writing, with a price, before the order is placed. Nothing starts until you approve it.

What the job includes

  • A Level 2 inspection with a camera scan of the flue, and the measurements the quote is built from — flue height, interior dimensions, offsets and the appliance outlet collar
  • Selection of the lining material, alloy and diameter against the appliance manufacturer's instructions and the applicable venting standard, explained before it is ordered
  • Sweeping the flue clean of creosote, soot and debris, which the liner manufacturers require before installation
  • Breaking out damaged clay tile or clearing an obstruction where the required diameter will not otherwise pass
  • Installing the listed liner system with the insulation the appliance and the listing call for, over the full length where that is required
  • Terminating at the top with a top plate, storm collar and rain cap, and connecting to the appliance with the components the manufacturer specifies
  • A draft check on completion, and a permanent notice-of-usage label at the connector where the lining restricts the flue to a stated appliance type and fuel
  • Photographs of the chimney before and after, from the same angles where that is practical, plus the product listing and warranty paperwork for what was installed
  • A written scope and price you approve before any work begins

What it does not include

  • Supplying or installing the appliance itself — a stove, insert, furnace, boiler or water heater comes from the appliance dealer or heating contractor, and its own instructions govern the venting
  • Gas piping and electrical connection to an appliance. Washington rule places gas piping to the equipment served, and the electrical work, in separate trade classifications with their own state requirements
  • Relining a chimney that is not structurally sound. Manufacturer instructions prohibit it — the masonry is repaired or rebuilt first; see chimney masonry repair or chimney rebuild and restoration
  • Crown replacement, repointing or rebuilding the stack. These are quoted separately even when the inspection finds them at the same visit; see chimney crown repair
  • Flashing, leak tracing and waterproofing. Water entering at the roofline or through the masonry is a different repair; see chimney flashing repair, chimney leak repair, and chimney waterproofing
  • Permit applications, engineering, or any determination that your chimney complies with local code. Requirements change and depend on the property — confirm with SDCI or your county building department
  • Any statement about insurance coverage. Conditions can be documented with photographs; the claim decision belongs to your insurer

How the work goes

  1. Inspection and measurement

    A Level 2 inspection with a camera scan of the flue interior, the accessible chimney runs, and the appliance connection. We measure flue height, interior dimensions, offsets and the appliance outlet collar, and read the appliance manufacturer's venting instructions rather than working from a rule of thumb.

  2. A written scope you approve

    Material, alloy, diameter, listing, insulation type, terminations, and any prerequisite repair are written down with a price. Nothing is ordered and nothing starts until you have approved it, and we say plainly what is urgent, what can wait, and what does not need doing.

  3. Preparation

    Drop cloths down, the flue swept clean of creosote, soot and debris, and the masonry checked for cracked, loose or missing brick and mortar. Damaged tile or an obstruction that will not pass the required diameter is dealt with at this point.

  4. Liner installation

    The liner is run the full height of the flue with the specified insulation applied over the required length, then secured and supported per the manufacturer's instructions. Photographs are taken as the work goes in, because most of it will be invisible afterward.

  5. Termination and connection

    Top plate, storm collar and rain cap at the top; the appliance connection made with the components the manufacturer specifies at the bottom; and the notice-of-usage label fitted where the lining restricts the flue to one appliance type and fuel.

  6. Verification and handover

    The appliance is checked for correct draft, the before-and-after photographs and the product listing and warranty paperwork are handed over, and we walk you through what was installed and what maintenance it now needs.

What to look for

Pieces or flakes of clay tile, or creosote chunks, found on the roof or on the ground around the chimney
Material that came out of the flue. CSIA lists cracked or collapsed flue tiles, tiles with large chunks missing, and creosote flakes on the roof or ground among the visible signs of a chimney fire.
A stove, insert or new heating appliance was connected to the old flue and nothing was relined or scanned
Connecting an appliance to an existing chimney triggers a compliance check on size, flue condition, cleanout and clearances, and NFPA 211 makes a dissimilar appliance a Level 2 circumstance. The flue may be the wrong size or the wrong lining material for what is now attached.
Smoke rollout into the room, a smoky odor, or an appliance that will not draft the way it used to
Draft depends on flue size, flue condition and how warm the flue stays. A blocked, oversized or breached liner shows up here first.
Dark, wet staining or dripping at the appliance connector or in the firebox
A sign of flue gases condensing inside the flue rather than leaving it, which manufacturers tie directly to incorrect liner sizing and to a lack of insulation.
Rust on the damper, the firebox or the connector
Moisture is present in the flue, from condensation or from water getting in at the top. CSIA lists rust staining around the upper chimney or the inner lining among the homeowner-visible signs of water intrusion.
The chimney is old and nobody has confirmed there is a liner in it
Unlined and partially lined stacks exist. Code requires a masonry chimney to be lined with material appropriate to the appliance connected, so this is worth establishing rather than assuming.

What changes the price

We do not publish a headline figure, because it would be a guess about your chimney. These are the things that genuinely move the number, and we put a real one in writing after we have looked.

Flue height and chimney access
A taller flue needs more liner and more insulation, and a steep, tall, mossy or wet roof changes the setup and the safety equipment before any liner is unrolled.
Whether damaged tile has to come out
If the existing clay tile is intact and large enough, the liner drops through. If tile has to be broken out, or an offset opened up, to get the required diameter down the flue, that is demolition inside a chimney and it dominates the labor.
Offsets and bends in the flue
A straight vertical run is the simple case. Offsets, a smoke chamber that narrows, or a flue that changes direction add time and can change which liner product is workable.
The fuel, and therefore the alloy, the listing and the insulation
Manufacturers assign different stainless alloys and different insulation requirements to wood, coal, oil, gas and condensing appliances. The specification is set by what you burn, not by preference.
The appliance connection
A tee, an appliance adapter, or an insert that has to be pulled out and reset is more work than a straight connector, and the components have to be the ones the manufacturer lists.
Number of flues in the stack
A chimney serving both a fireplace and a furnace has two flues, each with its own condition, size and appliance, and each is its own decision.
Work the inspection turns up first
A failed crown, an unsound section of masonry or a flashing leak has to be resolved before or alongside the liner, and each is scoped and priced on its own rather than folded in invisibly.

Common questions

How do I know whether my chimney really needs relining?
From a Level 2 inspection, not from the outside. NFPA 211 names relining as a circumstance requiring a Level 2, and a Level 2 requires the internal surfaces of the flue liners to be examined with image-scanning equipment and requires the lining material and flue size to be evaluated against the appliances actually connected. The scan is what shows cracked, missing or displaced tile, failed joints and breaches, and it is also what can tell you the liner is fine.
I am putting in a wood stove insert. Do I need a new liner?
Often, and the decision is not optional guesswork. The mechanical code requires that where an appliance is connected to an existing chimney during a new installation, the chimney be brought into compliance for size, flue condition, cleanout and clearances, and NFPA 211 makes adding or swapping in a dissimilar appliance a Level 2 circumstance. Manufacturers also cap the flue for a solid-fuel appliance at three times the area of the appliance outlet collar and never smaller than the collar itself, which an old fireplace flue frequently exceeds.
Can a chimney flue be too big?
Yes, and it is a defect rather than spare capacity. Manufacturer instructions state that incorrectly sized flue liners cause condensation within the flue system and improper venting or appliance performance, and explain the mechanism: flue gases have to stay above their dew point, which one manufacturer approximates at around 128 degrees F. The mechanical code addresses the same problem by requiring an existing chimney to be resized as necessary to control flue gas condensation and to provide the required draft.
Does a stainless liner have to be insulated?
For solid fuel, treat it as yes. CSIA's position is that liners serving solid fuel-burning appliances need to be insulated, while gas and oil liners generally do not, because of lower flue gas temperatures. Manufacturer manuals allow insulation to be omitted only where the existing clay tile liner is in good condition and the chimney meets existing codes, and require the blanket over the full length in unlined, partially lined or cracked-tile chimneys. Insulation is also usually what a liner's reduced clearance-to-combustibles listing depends on.
What does UL 1777 actually mean on a liner quote?
UL 1777 is the safety standard for chimney liners field-installed into new or existing masonry chimneys for residential appliances where the maximum continuous flue-gas outlet temperature does not exceed 1,000 degrees F; its scope excludes Category II, III and IV gas appliances and systems producing corrosive acid condensation or positive chimney pressure. It matters because the code's list of permitted linings names listed and labeled systems complying with UL 1777 by number — so the listing is what makes the liner a compliant liner rather than a length of metal pipe.
Do I need a permit to reline a chimney in Seattle?
Assume you have to check. Seattle's current rule for masonry chimney work is SDCI Director's Rule 07-2025, effective January 8, 2026, which requires a building permit for unreinforced masonry chimney work with only narrow exceptions, and SDCI cautions that its tip sheets can lag the rule itself. Being exempt from a permit does not exempt the work from the building code. Requirements change and depend on the property, and cities outside Seattle enforce their own adopted codes — confirm with SDCI or your local building department before work starts.

What does chimney liner installation cost?

The cost guide walks through what moves the price, what a quote should include, and the questions worth asking whoever you hire.

Read the cost guide

Sources

  1. 2021 Seattle Residential Code, Chapter 10, Chimneys and FireplacesSeattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI), City of Seattle. Accessed 2026-08-27.
  2. 2021 Seattle Mechanical Code, Chapter 8, Chimneys and Vents, Sections 801.16 and 801.16.1Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI), City of Seattle. Accessed 2026-08-27.
  3. 2018 Seattle Residential Code, Chapter 10, Section R1003.12 Clay flue lining (installation)Seattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI), City of Seattle. Accessed 2026-08-27.
  4. 2021 Seattle Residential Code, Chapter 1 Scope and AdministrationSeattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  5. SDCI Director's Rule 07-2025, Alteration and Repair of Unreinforced Masonry ChimneysSeattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  6. SDCI Tip 303A, Common Seattle Residential Code RequirementsSeattle Department of Construction and Inspections (SDCI). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  7. UL 1777 - Chimney Liners (Standard detail page)UL Standards & Engagement. Accessed 2026-08-27.
  8. UL 103 - Factory-Built Chimneys for Residential Type and Building Heating Appliances (Standard detail page)UL Standards & Engagement. Accessed 2026-08-27.
  9. Flexible Chimney Liners: Ventinox, DuraFlex Pro, DuraFlex SW, DuraFlex 316, DuraFlex 304, TherMix, ProFoil - Installation InstructionsDuraVent. Accessed 2026-08-27.
  10. DuraVent 1777 Liners - Factory-Built Chimney Relining for Solid Fuel, Installation InstructionsDuraVent. Accessed 2026-08-27.
  11. Stainless Steel Flexible Liner - Installation Instructions and Maintenance Guide (Sizing the Proper Liner Diameter)Selkirk Corporation (cross-checked against National Chimney Supply M-Flex instructions, CBIN-001). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  12. Homeowner Resources - FAQ: What stainless steel liners require insulation?Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  13. Standard Operating Procedure - Level 2 Inspection, Masonry Fireplace (Rev. 4/5/19)Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  14. Preventing Chimney FiresChimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  15. After Chimney Fire - Ensure Safe Chimney UseChimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  16. Installation and Maintenance Instructions for Forever Flex / Pre-Insulated Forever Flex and ArmorFlex/Hybrid Liner - Insulation RequirementsOlympia Chimney Supply. Accessed 2026-08-27.
  17. Committee Input No. 9-NFPA 211-2024 [ Chapter 15 ] - First Draft Committee Input Statements, NFPA 211 A2026 cycleNational Fire Protection Association (NFPA). Accessed 2026-08-27.
  18. Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel-burning Appliances Code, 2016 (NFPA 211, 2016) - adoption listing and chapter indexUpCodes (code library reproducing NFPA 211 adoption data). Accessed 2026-08-27.

Next step

Start with an inspection

Tell us what you have noticed. We will look at the chimney, show you what we found, and put a price on the work before anything begins.

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